Rabbit Care Guide: Housing, Diet, and Health Essentials

Rabbits are the third most popular pet in the United Kingdom and the fourth in the United States, yet they remain one of the most misunderstood companion animals. Far from being low-maintenance starter pets, rabbits require specialized care that rivals that of cats and dogs. The House Rabbit Society reports that domestic rabbits can live 8 to 12 years with proper care — a commitment that matches or exceeds that of many dogs. They are intelligent, social, and deeply rewarding companions, but only when their unique needs are understood and met.

The most common reason rabbits are surrendered to shelters is that owners were unprepared for the level of care they require. According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, rabbits are the third most frequently surrendered species at animal shelters, behind only cats and dogs. This guide covers everything you need to know to provide a lifetime of excellent care for your rabbit, from housing and nutrition to health and enrichment.

Choosing the Right Housing

Rabbits need significantly more space than most people assume. The commonly sold pet store cages marketed for rabbits are almost universally too small. A rabbit needs enough space to take three full hops in any direction, stand up on its hind legs without touching the ceiling, and stretch out fully while lying down.

Minimum Cage Size Requirements

For a single rabbit, the House Rabbit Society recommends a minimum of 8 square feet of living space plus an attached exercise area of at least 24 square feet. Cages measuring 30 by 36 inches are acceptable for sleeping and eating quarters, but the rabbit must have access to a larger play area for at least four hours daily. The larger the enclosure, the happier and healthier the rabbit will be.

Wire-bottom cages cause painful sores on rabbits’ feet called pododermatitis. Solid flooring covered with soft bedding is essential. Many owners use exercise pens or x-pens combined with a low-sided litter box to create a spacious, comfortable enclosure. If you use a traditional cage, cover the wire floor with fleece, mats, or thick layers of newspaper and hay.

Indoor Versus Outdoor Housing

Rabbits should live indoors. Outdoor hutches expose rabbits to temperature extremes, predators, parasites, and social isolation. Rabbits are sensitive to heat and can die from heatstroke at temperatures above 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The average outdoor hutch in a backyard isolates the rabbit from family interaction, leading to boredom and depression. Indoor rabbits bond more closely with their humans, are safer from harm, and live longer lives.

Indoors, rabbits do best in a dedicated room or a large pen in a family area. Bathrooms and laundry rooms work well because they are easy to rabbit-proof and have tile floors that are comfortable in warm weather and easy to clean. The space should be draft-free and kept between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

Bedding and Litter

Paper-based bedding is the safest choice for rabbits. Avoid pine and cedar shavings, which release aromatic hydrocarbons that damage rabbits’ respiratory systems and livers. Aspen shavings are acceptable but paper bedding or fleece liners are better.

Rabbits are naturally clean animals that can be reliably litter-trained. Set up a litter box with paper-based litter, add a layer of hay on top, and place it where the rabbit already tends to eliminate. Most rabbits will use the box consistently within a few days. Clean the litter box every two days to prevent ammonia buildup and discourage your rabbit from eliminating elsewhere.

Nutrition: Hay Is Everything

A rabbit’s digestive system is designed for a high-fiber, low-calorie diet of mostly grass and hay. Getting the diet right is the single most important thing you can do for your rabbit’s health.

Unlimited Hay

Timothy hay should make up approximately 80 percent of a rabbit’s diet. Hay provides the insoluble fiber that keeps a rabbit’s digestive tract moving properly and wears down their continuously growing teeth. Without unlimited hay, rabbits develop gastrointestinal stasis, a potentially fatal condition in which the digestive system slows or stops. They also develop dental problems, including overgrown molars and incisors that require veterinary filing.

Offer a variety of hays to encourage eating. Timothy, orchard grass, oat hay, and meadow hay are all excellent choices. Alfalfa hay is too high in calcium and protein for adult rabbits but is appropriate for growing rabbits under seven months of age. A rabbit should consume a pile of hay roughly the size of its own body every day.

Fresh Vegetables

Rabbits need a daily serving of fresh leafy greens. Dark leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, red leaf lettuce, kale, cilantro, parsley, dandelion greens, basil, and mint are excellent choices. Introduce new vegetables one at a time to monitor for digestive upset. Feed about one cup of greens per two pounds of body weight daily.

Avoid iceberg lettuce, which has little nutritional value, and limit high-oxalate greens like spinach and Swiss chard to occasional treats. Cruciferous vegetables like broccoli and cabbage can cause gas and should be introduced gradually.

Pellets and Treats

High-quality timothy hay pellets should be fed in limited quantities — about one-eighth to one-quarter cup per five pounds of body weight daily. Choose plain pellets without seeds, nuts, dried fruit, or colored pieces, which are unhealthy and contribute to obesity. The Rabbit Welfare Association recommends pellets with at least 22 percent fiber and no more than 14 percent protein.

Treats should be limited to small pieces of rabbit-safe fruits like apple, banana, blueberry, and strawberry. A teaspoon of fruit once or twice daily is plenty. Many commercial rabbit treats sold in pet stores are high in sugar and starch and should be avoided entirely. For more detailed guidance on feeding, see our small pet nutrition guide.

Health and Veterinary Care

Rabbits are prey animals who hide signs of illness until they are very sick. Owners must be vigilant about monitoring their rabbit’s eating, drinking, and elimination habits daily.

Common Health Problems

Gastrointestinal stasis is the most common emergency in rabbits. Signs include reduced or absent appetite, small or no fecal pellets, lethargy, and teeth grinding. If your rabbit stops eating for more than 12 hours, it needs immediate veterinary attention. GI stasis can be fatal within 24 hours if untreated.

Dental disease affects up to 60 percent of pet rabbits according to veterinary studies. Overgrown molars cause pain, difficulty eating, and abscesses. Signs include drooling, reduced appetite, preferring soft foods, and weight loss. Regular hay consumption helps prevent dental disease, but some rabbits need periodic teeth filing under anesthesia.

Flystrike occurs when flies lay eggs on soiled fur, and the hatching maggots burrow into the rabbit’s skin. It is a medical emergency that can kill a rabbit within hours. Prevention involves keeping the rabbit’s hindquarters clean and checking twice daily in warm weather.

Uterine cancer affects 50 to 80 percent of unspayed female rabbits by age four. Spaying eliminates this risk and also reduces aggressive and territorial behaviors. Male rabbits should be neutered to prevent testicular cancer and reduce spraying and aggression.

Finding a Rabbit-Savvy Veterinarian

Not all veterinarians are qualified to treat rabbits. Exotic pet veterinarians with experience in lagomorph medicine are essential. The Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians maintains a directory of rabbit-savvy vets. Establish a relationship with a veterinarian before an emergency arises, and schedule annual wellness exams that include dental checks, weight monitoring, and fecal analysis for parasites.

Behavior and Enrichment

Rabbits are social, intelligent animals that need daily interaction and mental stimulation. A bored rabbit is a destructive rabbit.

Social Needs

Rabbits are highly social and do best in pairs or groups. The ideal setup is a neutered male and spayed female pair. If you keep a single rabbit, you must provide significant daily interaction. Rabbits that are socially isolated can become depressed, stop eating, and develop health problems.

Bonding rabbits requires patience. Keep new rabbits in separate enclosures next to each other so they can see and smell each other. After several days, swap their litter boxes to exchange scents. Introduce them in neutral territory with plenty of space and supervision. Full bonding can take weeks or months.

Enrichment Activities

Provide toys that encourage natural behaviors. Cardboard boxes with multiple holes cut in them make excellent hideaways and chew toys. Willow balls, apple branches, and untreated pine cones satisfy the chewing instinct. Digging boxes filled with shredded paper or hay allow rabbits to express their natural digging behavior.

Tunnels made from fabric tubes, plastic drainage pipes, or cardboard tubes stimulate exploration. Rabbits also enjoy puzzle feeders that make them work for their pellets or treats. Rotate toys regularly to maintain novelty.

Understanding Rabbit Body Language

Rabbits communicate primarily through body language. A rabbit lying flat on its stomach with legs tucked under is resting comfortably. A rabbit that flops onto its side with legs extended is deeply relaxed — this is one of the highest compliments a rabbit can give you. Thumping a hind leg signals fear or annoyance. Circling your feet is courtship behavior, especially common in unspayed rabbits. Teeth grinding can indicate contentment (soft grinding) or pain (loud grinding). Nudging with the nose means “pay attention to me” or “move out of my way.”

For a deeper understanding of bunny behavior, see our small pet behavior guide.

Handling Your Rabbit

Rabbits must be handled correctly to avoid injury. Never pick up a rabbit by the ears or scruff. To pick up a rabbit, place one hand under the chest and the other supporting the hindquarters, then lift gently while keeping the rabbit secured against your body. Rabbits have fragile spines and powerful hind legs — if they kick out while being held, they can fracture their vertebrae.

Most rabbits do not enjoy being held and carried. They prefer to interact at ground level. Sit on the floor with your rabbit and let it come to you for petting. Rabbits enjoy being stroked on the forehead, cheeks, and back — areas where they would groom each other. They generally dislike being touched on the belly, chin, or feet.

Grooming

Rabbits are meticulous groomers but need help managing their coats. Short-haired rabbits need brushing once weekly. Long-haired breeds like Angoras need daily brushing to prevent mats, which can trap moisture and lead to skin infections.

Rabbits shed heavily every three months. During shedding season, brush daily and increase hay intake to help pass any ingested fur. Unlike cats, rabbits cannot vomit, so hairballs are a serious medical problem requiring veterinary treatment. Prevent hairballs by brushing frequently and encouraging hay consumption.

Check your rabbit’s nails monthly and trim them every four to six weeks. Your veterinarian or a rabbit groomer can show you the proper technique. Nail trimmers designed for cats work well for rabbits.

FAQ

How long do pet rabbits live?

Domestic rabbits live 8 to 12 years with proper care. Some rabbits live into their mid-teens. The House Rabbit Society reports the oldest known domestic rabbit lived to 18 years.

Can rabbits be litter trained?

Yes, rabbits are naturally clean animals that can be reliably litter trained. Most rabbits learn to use a litter box within a few days. Spaying or neutering improves litter box consistency.

What vegetables are safe for rabbits?

Safe vegetables include romaine lettuce, kale, cilantro, parsley, basil, mint, dandelion greens, arugula, and endive. Introduce new vegetables one at a time and avoid iceberg lettuce, which has minimal nutritional value.

Do rabbits need vaccinations?

In the United States, vaccines for Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus (RHDV) are available and recommended, especially for rabbits that go outdoors. In the UK, vaccinations for RHDV and myxomatosis are standard. Consult your exotic veterinarian.

Why is my rabbit not eating?

A rabbit that stops eating is a medical emergency. Causes include gastrointestinal stasis, dental pain, stress, or illness. Seek veterinary care immediately if your rabbit has not eaten for 12 hours. For general health guidance, read our small pet health guide.

For more on setting up your rabbit’s home, see our small pet housing guide.