Tree and Shrub Planting Guide
Planting trees and shrubs correctly in the first few years determines their long-term health, growth rate, and lifespan. Proper planting from the start prevents costly problems later, including structural issues from poor branch angles, root girdling from planting too deep, and shortened life span from inadequate site preparation. This guide covers everything from site selection to ongoing care.
Site Selection
Evaluate the planting site carefully before purchasing any tree or shrub. Consider the mature size of the plant at full growth and make sure it fits the space without interfering with buildings, overhead power lines, underground utilities, driveways, sidewalks, or neighboring properties. A small ornamental tree at planting may reach thirty feet tall and wide at maturity.
Match the plant to the site conditions. Consider sunlight exposure — full sun, partial shade, or full shade. Evaluate soil drainage by digging a test hole and filling it with water; if water remains after twenty-four hours, the site has poor drainage that requires selecting species tolerant of wet conditions or improving drainage before planting. Check soil pH and amend if needed based on test results.
Assess hardiness zone compatibility. Select trees and shrubs rated for your USDA hardiness zone or one zone colder for reliable winter survival. Microclimates around buildings provide slightly warmer conditions in cold climates, while exposed hilltops and valley bottoms may be significantly colder.
Planting
Dig the planting hole two to three times the width of the root ball but no deeper than the root ball itself. The top of the root ball should sit at or slightly above grade. Planting too deep is the most common cause of tree failure, leading to stem rot, girdling roots that strangle the trunk, and death within several years.
Remove all containers, burlap, twine, wire baskets, and other materials from the root ball before planting. Cut or untangle any circling roots at the root ball surface to encourage outward root growth into the native soil. For balled and burlapped trees, remove as much burlap and wire as possible without disturbing the root ball.
Backfill the hole with the same soil removed from the hole. Do not add soil amendments like compost, peat moss, or fertilizer to the backfill soil. Research has shown that roots stay in the amended soil and do not spread into the surrounding native soil, creating a pot effect that restricts the tree long term.
Watering
Water deeply immediately after planting until the root ball and surrounding soil are saturated. Apply water slowly to allow it to soak in to the full depth of the root ball rather than running off the surface. The most critical watering period is the first two years after planting when roots are establishing.
Established watering guidelines for the first growing season are every seven to ten days in most climates, more frequently in hot weather or sandy soils, and less frequently in clay soils or cool weather. Water when the top few inches of soil feel dry to the touch rather than on a fixed schedule. Continue watering into late fall until the ground freezes to prevent winter desiccation.
Mulching
Apply a two to four inch layer of organic mulch over the root zone of newly planted trees and shrubs. Keep mulch several inches away from the trunk to prevent bark rot, vole damage, and girdling roots that can form in deep mulch piled against the stem. The mulched area should extend to the drip line of the canopy or at least three feet in diameter around the trunk.
Organic mulch like shredded bark, wood chips, or compost moderates soil temperature and moisture, suppresses weeds that compete for water and nutrients, prevents lawn mower and string trimmer damage to trunks, and adds organic matter to the soil as it slowly decomposes over time.
Ongoing Care
Prune only damaged, broken, or crossing branches during the first few years after planting. Allow young trees to develop their natural shape and branch structure. Make pruning cuts at the branch collar without leaving stubs that are slow to heal and provide entry points for decay organisms.
Stake trees only when necessary. Research shows unstaked trees develop stronger trunks and root systems than staked trees because the trunk must flex to build girth and wind resistance. Remove stakes after the first growing season to prevent girdling from stake ties. Protect young tree trunks from sunscald, deer rubbing, and lawn equipment damage with trunk wraps or plastic guards.
Pruning Young Trees and Shrubs
Pruning young trees and shrubs shapes their long-term structure and prevents future problems. Focus pruning in the first few years on developing a strong framework rather than heavily shaping the plant. Remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches at any time of year as soon as you notice them. These branches are entry points for decay and pests and should never be left on a tree.
For young trees, establish a single dominant leader trunk for strength and form. Remove competing leaders that form a V-shaped crotch, which is structurally weaker than a single leader. Select scaffold branches spaced vertically and radially around the trunk, removing branches with narrow crotch angles that are prone to splitting under heavy loads of ice, snow, or fruit. Remove crossing and rubbing branches before they damage each other and create bark wounds that invite decay.
For shrubs, prune to encourage healthy growth and maintain desired size and shape. Spring-flowering shrubs like lilacs and forsythia should be pruned immediately after flowering since they bloom on wood grown the previous season. Summer-flowering shrubs like rose of Sharon and butterfly bush can be pruned in late winter or early spring since they bloom on new growth produced the same season. Remove up to one-third of the oldest stems at ground level each year to rejuvenate overgrown shrubs and promote vigorous new growth from the base.
Use clean, sharp pruning tools appropriate for the branch size. Hand pruners work for branches up to half an inch in diameter. Loppers handle branches up to one and a half inches. A pruning saw is needed for larger branches. Disinfect pruning tools between plants, especially when pruning diseased material, using a solution of one part bleach to nine parts water or 70 percent rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading pathogens from one plant to another.
Watering Established Trees
After the initial establishment period of two to three years, trees and shrubs need supplemental watering primarily during drought conditions. Established trees with deep root systems are surprisingly drought-tolerant and do not need the frequent watering that newly planted trees require. Water deeply during extended dry periods when less than one inch of rainfall occurs per week for several weeks, applying water slowly at the drip line rather than at the trunk.
Apply water to the entire root zone extending from the trunk to beyond the canopy dripline. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation placed in concentric circles around the tree for even water distribution. Apply approximately ten gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter for each deep watering session during drought conditions. Water in the early morning to minimize evaporation and allow foliage to dry before nightfall.
Avoid frequent light watering of established trees and shrubs, which encourages roots to stay near the dry soil surface where they are vulnerable to drought stress and temperature extremes. Deep, infrequent watering during dry periods encourages deep root growth that makes trees and shrubs more resilient and self-sufficient.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to plant trees and shrubs?
Early spring after soil thaws and before buds break is ideal in cold climates. Fall planting six to eight weeks before the ground freezes is excellent in most regions, giving roots time to establish before winter. Avoid planting during hot, dry summer weather when water stress threatens new plants. Container-grown plants can be planted any time the ground is workable with adequate watering.
How deep should I plant a tree?
The root flare where the trunk widens at the base should be visible at or slightly above the soil surface. Planting depth is the most critical factor in tree survival. The planting hole should be no deeper than the root ball. Dig the hole shallow and wide rather than deep and narrow.
Should I stake a newly planted tree?
Staking is generally not recommended for most trees. Research shows unstaked trees develop stronger root systems and trunks. Stake only when necessary to protect the tree from wind damage, when the root ball is small relative to the trunk, or when the planting site is extremely windy. Remove stakes after the first growing season.
How much should I water a newly planted tree?
Apply one to two gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter at each watering during the first growing season. Water every seven to ten days in average conditions. Increase frequency during hot, dry weather. Decrease during cool, wet weather. Continue watering until the ground freezes in fall.
Landscaping Basics Guide Soil Preparation Guide Pruning Techniques Guide